To test this feature, visit your live site.

SP6 - Preparation

I am getting ready to print and assemble this clock (and maybe some of the other electric clocks too!).

I purchased a bunch of the required parts (CNC from aliexpress, this one I planned to go next to my bed so I ordered the 0.9 steppers (17HS4401S-0.9), they seem to fit all the requirements.

I've already printed SP7 and posted in my Mini Factory, that is a beautiful clock which now sits at my nanna's house. I overcame double clicking by putting a small weight on the static Pawl, however retrospectively I don't think my second hand was solid so that may have resolved the double clicks as well.

The wiring diagram is very useful, however I wonder if there is a clear picture of the back of the CNC Shield V4 that would be easier to replicate? The technical explanation is useful but a bit over my head.

I also assume the 0.9 steppers will be fine for the SP6? I notice that other forum posts mention that the design was for the cheaper 1.8 degree steppers, however the ones I got were cheaper than the 1.6 degree ones in Aus.

Excited to build! I am planning on a Galaxy Black clone for the frame, and silver silk (Sunlu) for the cogs.

9 comments

9 Comments

Pop Fizzle

Jan 26

I ended up with the V1.2 TMC2208 they seem to work fine for the sp10. The biggest difference I can tell is the potentiometer is underneath instead of on top. So, you have to pull the board to make adjustments. Other than that, seems to work clock is keeping good time. I ended up with about 3/4 turn on pot to run good half and below would chatter unloaded. Does this seem correct adjustment as the other version Steve? And what is the version your using seemed to have missed that in the instructions.

Steve

Jan 26

Replying to

I thought there was only one TMC2208 version available when I wrote the instructions. Now there is V1.2 with the potentiometer on top, V1.2 with the potentiometer on the bottom, V2.0, and V3.0.

I have tested all of them and all seem to work. Some are better than others. V1.2 with the potentiometer on top is the best. The potentiometer on the bottom is a horrible design and I hope it goes away. At least it is workable, even if it is a bit annoying. It should never need adjusting once it is set up. If I ever make another batch of boards, I will add a hole on the board to support both versions.

V2.0 and V3.0 appear to be designed for higher current applications. They are fully functional, but the lowest stable setting provides much more power than the clock needs. The risk is that gears may break if something gets jammed into the clock. V1.2 drivers have a low enough current setting that the motor will harmlessly stall if the gears are jammed.

The correct adjustment position varies. Some clocks run great with the potentiometer all the way to the left. Others need to be turned partially to the right. I don't know it the bottom potentiometers are the same or if they are backwards. It is good when the motor is smooth, but also easily stopped by holding the gears.

I will update the instructions with the new information in the near future.

Adam

Jul 11, 2024

So I managed to get the parts and assemble today.

One of my TMC2208's don't work, and the other two have to be turned right up on the potentiometer to work, and once it works the stepper emits a sort of ghostly noise that is a little annoying.

I got the TMC2208's on AliExpress for $4.55 each, so I don't know if it's just poor quality ones. I will source some more elsewhere. Apart from that and some poor quality ironing on the front face I am very happy with how the clock looks!

I have to say the jumper locations confused the hell out of me as there is no clear picture to align with how the jumpers work, I kept reading it as binary and not literal physical locations.

Adam

Jul 12, 2024

Replying to

Thanks Steve, I did figure it out in the end. I think it's not obvious when reading that the 0's and 1's represent the positions of the jumpers respective to the board placement, I think popping a small image of the Shield showing these would be helpful for others.

Unfortunately downunder in Aus Amazon is very expensive for those TMC2208's, I've managed to find the 1.2 version on AliExpress, I'll give them a try as well. I ran the clock next to my bed last night and the noise didn't annoy me at all, it may need some time to break in.

I have purchased the Crazy Gear Medium clock and will be doing that next with the 0.9 degree steppers for a gift, will be interestng comparing the noise.

As an aside, I printed a second SP12 which is on my wall above me now and had lots of issues getting it running with a decent amount of weight, I suspect it came down to my layer heights actualy. I usually print with 0.3mm layer heights and adaptive layers, however with the silk I was using I noticed this to be way too rough, reprinting with smaller layer heights made a HUGE difference and the clock is now running reliabily on the 11day, I didn't expect 0.1mm to make such a difference! I will be experementing with 0.15mm layer heights next clock.

Steve

Jul 12, 2024

Replying to

It's nice to hear that you got it figured out. Please report back if the V1.2 TMC2208's are similar to the V3.0. I hope they are pin compatible.

I typically print most parts using 0.2mm layer heights. One concern is the ridges could interlock and add extra friction. The stepper motor clocks would still run just fine, but a weight driven clock might need extra power. A simple solution is to print the gears at 0.15mm layer heights. An alternate solution that might work slightly better is to use layer heights that do not mesh. Print all the even numbered gears at 0.2mm and the odd numbered gears at 0.17mm. The frame can use anything you are comfortable with.

Adam

Aug 06, 2024

Replying to

Hi Steve,

Finally my new TMC2208's arrived from this listing https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001457330879.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.29.39be1802jpyMQy

It is a night and day difference, both types of steppers are totally silent with this driver, the black ones emit a very annoying high pitched squeal and rougher movement, whilst these white ones are totally dead silent and have much smoother movement.

EDIT - and I just put together my SP6 which was rather noisy next to my bed, and it's dead silent even fully assembled.

Edited

Steve

Jul 05, 2024

The pictures in the assembly guide or the addendum should be clear enough to create the controller using the CNC Shield V4. I am away for a few days and can take better pictures when I get back if you need them.

SP6 is incredibly quiet with 1.8 degree motors. Only the extra gears in the crazy gear clocks benefit from the 0.9 degree motors. The default algorithm only has jumper settings for SP6 with 1.8 degree motors. It would need some slight modifications to work with 0.9 degree motors. I can help with a modified algorithm if needed.

Adam

Jul 05, 2024

Replying to

Thanks Steve, I managed to get the 17HS15-1504S on eBay for a reasonable price, so I will use that for this clock and save the 0.9 degree steppers for the crazy gear clocks.

I will see how I go with the CNC Shield, however I do think a clear photo of the back post changes might make it easier for new people to this like me! I ordered all the parts from AliExpress, so they won't be here until next week anyway.