Steve, Is there any chance of you selling a pin kit? I can dig up all the screws.... but due to my location finding all the pins for your big printed clock is stopping me from buying the plans.
@Steve It can be useful to have documentation that provides illustrative links/pages to generic sites like Ebay, AliExpress, BangGood, etc. I know it's not always good to encourage people to buy from certain resellers, but this is helpful.
bigclivedotcom, on his YouTube videos, often prints out or displays typical ebay pages that he buys from. Even if the seller no longer sells it, it is very helpful for new people to see the typical prices and pictures.
@Steve Ok thanks Steve. Having a great time printing your large easy build. So far its gone quite well. The back frame is just finishing printing today and i have the spacers and weight shell yet to do.
If this one works out well I think I will also do your large wall clock next. Will there be updated Higher Res STLs at some point or does that present a problem?
@Mike Snider The STLs are already at the highest resolution that TurboCAD supports without using the manual facet settings. The only part that I would like to be higher resolution is dial. It is large enough that the flat surfaces show up. I may experiment with the settings for that part, but don't know if I would bother going back to re-release the older designs.
Have you tried using PrusaSlicer for the color changes? They have a fairly large selection of additional printers beyond their own models. It might reduce the stress of being there within 5 minutes. With a Prusa MK3S, the print head will cool down after 5-10 minutes. Press a button and it warms back up to swap filament. The bed stays heated so the part can stay attached for a long time. It might work the same way for other printer models.
@Steve Sadly the issue is with the firmware of the machine. Its a known issue. I have a better firmware package to upgrade to that sorts this issue out, but I dont wish to change it in the middle of this project as its going quite well at this point. However My dial turn out very well.
@Mike Snider Completely normal. It is a tradeoff between making them just the right size for some printers and sloppy loose on others. There is plenty of wall thickness to handle drilling the holes. Also, you typically only need to drill the first cm from each end.
I am considering updating my firmware to the insanity automation package as my factory firmware doesnt wish to pause at height for the dial. I do have a pause at layer work around that Ive tested. Seems to work. But everyone is raving about the insanity automation package for the Ender 5 Pro. ... So we'll think on it. Right the way it is seems to be working out fine.
@Steve Although im not done printing all the parts, I have just finished the pallet pendulum rod and bob. I see no way to adjust the beat other than to move the base of the clock left or right. Is this correct?
I have had mixed results with generic stainless steel being too soft to work well. It works, but just barely. Music wire is hardened and very stiff.
The specific link posted would be too short for any of the clocks. Most need lengths of 75mm to 125mm. Download the assembly guides for a specific clock to see the exact sizes needed. Each clock is slightly different.
Ok, Thanks anyways. I dont have this stuff locally available to me. I live in the north. I would have to make several orders from many sources and shipping would be much more. Due to this sadly I must give it a pass for now. Shame. I am a classically trained clock smith.
I try to design each of the clocks to use standard hardware store material. The alignment pins in the earlier clocks are just short pieces of metal rod. Any type of metal rod is good enough. The easy build clocks do not use alignment rods and the frames stay together just as well. This makes me think that the earlier clocks would work just fine without the pins.
If you are wondering about the music wire for the arbors, you may be able to find some locally. It is a fairly standard size.
I have considered offering parts kits for some of the clocks. The first ones would likely be for the electromagnetic pendulum clock since it needs a very specific electronic module. One small issue is that all parts shipped outside the US need to be shipped as a parcel to go through customs. This adds a minimum of US$15 in additional cost even for very small lightweight packages. Packages shipped inside the US are relatively cheap to ship. I would welcome anyone in the EU to create parts kits for my clocks. They would probably have much lower shipping overhead.
@Steve It can be useful to have documentation that provides illustrative links/pages to generic sites like Ebay, AliExpress, BangGood, etc. I know it's not always good to encourage people to buy from certain resellers, but this is helpful.
bigclivedotcom, on his YouTube videos, often prints out or displays typical ebay pages that he buys from. Even if the seller no longer sells it, it is very helpful for new people to see the typical prices and pictures.
How about this stuff? KNS504 - Music Wire 36" .062" (1/16") By K&S ENGEERING @ Great Hobbies
Its a little thicker than 0.059.....1.5mm
I have had mixed results with generic stainless steel being too soft to work well. It works, but just barely. Music wire is hardened and very stiff.
The specific link posted would be too short for any of the clocks. Most need lengths of 75mm to 125mm. Download the assembly guides for a specific clock to see the exact sizes needed. Each clock is slightly different.
Steve
Steve
Would this work for the 1.5mm music wire?
Fielect 1.5mm Round Rod 20Pcs Stainless Steel Silver Tone Solid Core for Model Plane Model Ship 40x1.5mm : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific
Ok, Thanks anyways. I dont have this stuff locally available to me. I live in the north. I would have to make several orders from many sources and shipping would be much more. Due to this sadly I must give it a pass for now. Shame. I am a classically trained clock smith.
Let me know if you ever decide to make a pin kit.
Cheers
Hi Mike,
I try to design each of the clocks to use standard hardware store material. The alignment pins in the earlier clocks are just short pieces of metal rod. Any type of metal rod is good enough. The easy build clocks do not use alignment rods and the frames stay together just as well. This makes me think that the earlier clocks would work just fine without the pins.
If you are wondering about the music wire for the arbors, you may be able to find some locally. It is a fairly standard size.
I have considered offering parts kits for some of the clocks. The first ones would likely be for the electromagnetic pendulum clock since it needs a very specific electronic module. One small issue is that all parts shipped outside the US need to be shipped as a parcel to go through customs. This adds a minimum of US$15 in additional cost even for very small lightweight packages. Packages shipped inside the US are relatively cheap to ship. I would welcome anyone in the EU to create parts kits for my clocks. They would probably have much lower shipping overhead.
Steve