Coup Perdu Clock Second Prototype

You answered your own question. More weight gives the pendulum more force and it swings with a greater amplitude. Reduce the weight slightly to reduce the pendulum amplitude.

The pendulum needs to swing far enough for the escapement to rotate to the next position. An under-driven pendulum doesn't always allow this to happen. Adding extra weight into the motor module gives the pendulum additional amplitude and makes the clock more reliable.

I added an optional part called motor_switch_cover_plastic.stl that should have a large enough opening for the plastic reed switches. The file might need to be downloaded by clicking on "object_parts". It takes a few days for the zip file to get regenerated.

It is finished. That is an early prototype of the Coup Perdu escapement option in the clock you just finished. The deadbeat escapement in your clock is the more reliable option.

It's good to see that you completed the clock and got it working. I believe it will be as accurate as any of the other pendulum clocks, about a minute or two per week.

The electromechanical pendulum clock is a fun project, but it will always be a bit sensitive and difficult to adjust properly.

My clock measures 3.52" (89.4mm) between the frames at the location of the arbor. The instructions should say the gears plus spring and shaft collar should add up to 3.50" (89mm) with the arbor sticking past on both ends. This leaves 0.02" (0.4mm) of end shake.

Move the shaft collar further down so it fills the available space.

ok Steve, thanks for the very kind answer, I wanted to ask you, the frane back lower, center, upper, did you always print them with 6 lower and 7 upper layers and 30% filling?, as you know I have a mini prusa and set so with these parameters I get more hours than you printed them, for example the back lower gives me 13 hours of printing instead of your 8 hours and 4 minutes that you communicated. thank you.

I always use those as defaults, although the frame in this clock doesn't need as much strength as the wall hanging clocks that need to support a heavy drive weight. I would still keep 4 perimeters on the frame to provide extra thickness where the axles rub.

When I load the Prusa Mini slicer, I see print times that are slightly faster than the MK3S, not 50% slower. Do you have your speeds dialed really slow?

hi Steve, i use standard 100 speed and i use 0.2 quality mode.

The pin needs to stay in the motor_switch_cover. Printers have different tolerances, so glue it in place if it loose. Or use 1/16" music wire if you have it.

The motor_flipper is held in place with a shaft collar after it is placed on the pin. Metal shaft collars are the most convenient because they have a set screw to allow them to be easily removed if needed.

There is a printed substitute to avoid having to find the metal shaft collars. The printed shaft collars are a press fit. They can be scaled smaller to make them tighter. Or they can be drilled out to make them looser.

ok steve, now i understand thanks, because from the videos it was not clear that the motor flipper is locked at the top with a collar. The video you should do when it's ready?,

Can you try the test again with the 20mm pin in place? That should give the most accurate positioning of the magnet in the off position.

All three flipper arms have similar magnet positions. Their differences are the counter weight at the top to help the lever pull away when the motor needs to turn off.

Your motor appears to be rotating correctly. The pinion will climb when the motor is turning.

Ok Steve, I'll try as you told me, then I'll let you know. thank you.

The loads are very small since the heaviest component is only a few ounces. Just about any settings will work for the frame. My default is 4 perimeters and 30% infill, but this clock would be OK with even less.

The deadbeat escapement runs with a much smaller drive weight, making it significantly more reliable. It would be my recommendation.

Steve

It is probably good. Try it.

Yes, I will probably make an assembly video for this clock, but it will be at least a week or two before it can be posted.

I may also enhance the assembly guide with more pictures in that section. The wiring picture shows the most important details. Once it is completed, the assembly may be obvious after printing the remaining components.

yes at least one photo of how the gearmotor is positioned with the appropriate screw and how the red magnetic is positioned would be a nice thing and would complete the instructional guide. thanks stefano.

That link should have been correct a few hours ago. Can you try to refresh the page?

There are so many links to keep track of. Each page is trying to cross link to the other pages and some links need to be set up before the other pages exist.

Clock design seems so much easier than web site design. :)

Steve

I get there via YouTube, I have done several tests and it seems that the best shortcut for the moment to enter the site and buy is this.

The MyMiniFactory issue should be temporary. The dial is the largest component at 173x173mm. It should print on a Prusa Mini.

hi Steve, the link you sent still doesn't work, are there connection problems?

Are you referring to the link to https://www.stevesclocks.com/sp8

I fixed that page address. Thanks for pointing it out. Please let me know if there are any others.

Steve