I have a Prusa i3 clone with a bed of 195x200. Only 2 parts are bigger than 195 (the dial frame and back center frame). I took those and in opened in tinkercad and trimmed some edges off.
That's awesome news. It looks like the part is touching the top edge and extending 3.2mm into the handle section. Great job making it work. After this part and the back frame, everything else will be easy.
202mm would require a 99% scale factor, which is the same amount of effort as the 98% scale factor that allows you to use the original slicer that you are already familiar with. There is minimal risk with either scale factor.
There were multiple messages. One said you could do 202mm without modifying the limit switches. Another showed the full dial printing after modifying the switches. It seems like you have several options with possible solutions.
This must be frustrating for you to have a printer that is just a tiny bit too small. I design clocks to fill the build plate on a Prusa MK3/4 (250x210) or Ender 3 (220x220) printers since they are so popular. The Bambu Lab printers are 256x256mm, so they work as well. This clock might someday receive a 75% scale for a Prusa Mini or Bambu Lab A1 Mini. The dial might get an 80% or 85% scale but would still end up smaller than 180x180. I am not actively working on it right now and I have a lot of other projects ahead of it, so for now we should figure out how to get the existing design printed on your printer.
The back frame and dial are structural components that need to support the weight shell. They cannot be split down the center. The best cut would be to shave off a 3.2mm sliver away from any critical components. The best open area on the dial would be a 45 degree cut between the 7 and 8. The back frame could cut away 1.6 from the top and bottom or both sides.
My personal opinion is that the clock would run perfectly with the 98% scale factor. And it would look better also.
Modifying the slicer settings to add the 4mm would also be a great option if you can get it to work. I do not see Qidi in the list of supported printers for either PrusaSlicer or Cura. It seems surprising since Qidi printers look to be incredibly fast for the price. The Qidi website says their slicer is based on Cura.
The moon phase clock back frame and dial are both 8" (203.2mm) circles.
I ran a test print on my Prusa MK3.5 printer. The default print size is 250x210mm, but it prints the initial purge line at Y=-4, so this tells me the printer is actually capable of printing at least 214mm in the Y direction.
Here are the changes required to print a 10mm x 213.2mm rectangle on my printer. I use PrusaSlicer in Advanced mode. Select Printer_Settings => General => Bed_Shape. A dialog box pops up and I changed the Y size from 210 to 214. The origin was changed from 0 to 4 because I know that the startup G-code will print the purge line at Y=-4.
Here is the setting under Printer_Settings => Custom_G-code => Start G-code. Scroll down near the bottom and it shows the purge line at X=0 and Y=-4.
Then I went to the main screen and added a 10mm x 213.2mm rectangle onto the plate. The skirt is turned off. It successfully printed without hitting any end stops.
Other slicers should have similar abilities. If the initial purge line is outside the specified 270mmx200mm print size, then you know that the printer is physically capable of moving more than 200mm in the Y direction.
There are only two components that will not fit, the dial and the back frame portion behind the dial. Both are 8" (203.2mm) circles.
Here are a few options:
Chopping both parts and gluing on a 3.2mm sliver is an option but will leave a visible scar on the dial.
Many printers use a portion of the bed below the reported 270x200mm area to print the purge line. You might be able to tell the slicer that you have a 270x204mm print bed.
The clock should easily be able to handle a 98% XY scale to get under the 200mm limit. Scale the frame, gears, and hands. Leave Z at 100% or else you will also need to reduce the arbor lengths by the same amount. Leave the pendulum and weight shell unscaled. All the arbor holes need to be drilled to fit even without scaling. The screws will be 2% tighter but should not be a problem. The bearings might be a tight fit. You may need to sand the bearing holes so they can go in loosely. The biggest risk is consistency in making sure ALL parts that need to be scaled are properly scaled. One gear at 100% might bind up.
I have a Prusa i3 clone with a bed of 195x200. Only 2 parts are bigger than 195 (the dial frame and back center frame). I took those and in opened in tinkercad and trimmed some edges off.
Steve
After a lot of fiddling around I got the full size diameter 8 inches to fit and print.
see attached.
Steps taken:
1 down loaded Cura
2 set plate size to 209mm x270mm x 200mm
3 adjustment to limit mico switch (see photo) moved back by 6mm
4 moved build plate back by 6mm
all printed fine.
The print in progress if for the dial. All should be fine now.
Many Thanks for your help and advise.
Steve,
I can now manage 202mm max dia. Would the work?
Other wise I would have to modify the limiting Micro switch at on the width limiting. I would rather not do that.
as it would be be a bit messy and compromising the X-Plus printer build.
Alan
Steve,
I have installed CURA, that gives me the opportunity to adjust the plate size etc.
However, I'm having trouble to get CURA printing. I'll keep trying,
Hopefully I'll sort it out. I'll.
Thanks.
Alan
Thanks
I can't see any where to modify the plate size in the Xplus 2.
I'll check with the support team and ask the question.
If that's not possible, could I split the 2 stl files, that require the 203mm diameter. or will I need 2 files for each component ?
I that possible, how do i divide each file or obtain them
Many thanks for your advice so far
Alan
Hi Alan,
The moon phase clock back frame and dial are both 8" (203.2mm) circles.
I ran a test print on my Prusa MK3.5 printer. The default print size is 250x210mm, but it prints the initial purge line at Y=-4, so this tells me the printer is actually capable of printing at least 214mm in the Y direction.
Here are the changes required to print a 10mm x 213.2mm rectangle on my printer. I use PrusaSlicer in Advanced mode. Select Printer_Settings => General => Bed_Shape. A dialog box pops up and I changed the Y size from 210 to 214. The origin was changed from 0 to 4 because I know that the startup G-code will print the purge line at Y=-4.
Here is the setting under Printer_Settings => Custom_G-code => Start G-code. Scroll down near the bottom and it shows the purge line at X=0 and Y=-4.
Then I went to the main screen and added a 10mm x 213.2mm rectangle onto the plate. The skirt is turned off. It successfully printed without hitting any end stops.
Other slicers should have similar abilities. If the initial purge line is outside the specified 270mmx200mm print size, then you know that the printer is physically capable of moving more than 200mm in the Y direction.
Steve
8" (203.2mm)
Hi Alan,
Yes, I think it can be done.
There are only two components that will not fit, the dial and the back frame portion behind the dial. Both are 8" (203.2mm) circles.
Here are a few options:
Chopping both parts and gluing on a 3.2mm sliver is an option but will leave a visible scar on the dial.
Many printers use a portion of the bed below the reported 270x200mm area to print the purge line. You might be able to tell the slicer that you have a 270x204mm print bed.
The clock should easily be able to handle a 98% XY scale to get under the 200mm limit. Scale the frame, gears, and hands. Leave Z at 100% or else you will also need to reduce the arbor lengths by the same amount. Leave the pendulum and weight shell unscaled. All the arbor holes need to be drilled to fit even without scaling. The screws will be 2% tighter but should not be a problem. The bearings might be a tight fit. You may need to sand the bearing holes so they can go in loosely. The biggest risk is consistency in making sure ALL parts that need to be scaled are properly scaled. One gear at 100% might bind up.
Steve