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Small 8-day clock pendulum

I have printed the Small 8-day pendulum clock, I had this working pretty well, just left to get the timing 100%.

I was out and on my return the weight shell was on the ground and has split and it also split the back frame. It looks like the thickness of the print for both items was too thin. I just printed the files as they came across.

Any suggestions on how to solve this. Pretty sad this happened as I was so happy with the end result.

Joy

3 comments

3 Comments

Steve

Feb 09

Sorry to hear that. The pictures are very helpful.

Was the entire weight shell on the ground? Or just the bottom half? If the weight shell split in half, the bottom portion and all the BBs would be on the ground.

The weight shells are designed to print with 2 inside perimeters and 2 outside perimeters. I have found this to be a good balance between strength and print time. I have at least a dozen weight shells and the only one that ever fell was from a broken string.

The picture of the frame split looks like the walls are thin. The recommendation is 4 perimeters for strength. Is it possible that the frame split, allowing the winding drum to pull away from the back bearing and the entire weight shell crashed to the floor? Maybe the frame break started a chain reaction that caused the weight shell to break when it hit the floor.

Joy Loxton

Feb 09

Replying to

HI Steve,

Thank you for the response, first print of this type, I am only new at this and learning (the hard way, got to learn, they say the hard way is the best way).

I wil reprint the back and check the perimeters, I did just print it as it was on the file.

I did find the bottom of the weight shell on the ground, with all the BBs everywhere.

Will let you know how I go.

Joy

Steve

Feb 10

Replying to

Hi Joy,

Now l am trying to guess a way for the sudden release of energy from broken weight shell could have caused a stress in the frame. It may be possible if the frame was flexing and suddenly unflexed. Re-printing with 4 perimeters should help. 30% cubic infil would be good also.

You could tie some string around the weight shell to hold it together. There is enough clearance to go under the pulley and wrap it around the bottom a few times. It won't look as nice, but it would give you some piece of mind, at least until you trust the printing strength.

Increasing the print temperature 5-10 degrees should help the layers fuse together better. PrusaSlicer defaults to 230 for the first layer and 220 for all other layers for generic PLA. It used to be either 200 or 210. I never have clogs anymore with the higher temperature and the prints should be stronger.

Steve